Depth | When the warm underwear is no longer warm, the Antarctic people are no longer steady to sit “altar”

Phoenix network fashion

深度 | 当保暖内衣不再保暖,南极人也不再稳坐“神坛”

Double twelve came, and major e-commerce platforms have ushered in the last carnival in 2021.

As of now, in Tmall Men’s Warm Suit Hot Sale List, Hengyuanxiang, Red Bean, Cat, Seven Wolf and other brands have occupied the top ten,

Antarctic “plus velvet thermal underwear” is in the eleventh place;

Women’s warm suit list, thinking, three blessings, Hengyuanxiang, curious honey, Dianian, etc. top ten,

“Women’s Qiuyi Qiuqi Set” is located 10th.

In the official flagship store of Tmall, the highest sales of “2021 new men’s risers” have sold 7236 pieces, the total price of about 360,000 yuan, the sales of the second high “no trace of thin autumn clothes” has sold 5286 Part, total price of about 400,000 yuan.

深度 | 当保暖内衣不再保暖,南极人也不再稳坐“神坛”

In contrast, in Jingdong’s “warm inner clothing list”,

The Antarctic “plus velvet warm underwear” is the first place, “double-layer polytead men’s warm underwear” second place.

深度 | 当保暖内衣不再保暖,南极人也不再稳坐“神坛”

But recently, the sales of the soldiers are due to

“Antarctic warm pants to shrink 20 cm after shaking”

The quality of the question is not limited, causing public opinion storm.

The latest quarterly announcement released by Antarctic e-commerce shows that in the third quarter of 2021, the company achieved a business income of approximately 1.113 billion yuan, a year-on-year decline in 2.85%. The profit attributable to the listing shareholder is about 157 million yuan, a year-on-year decline in 46.07%.

Last few years,

Antarctic people occupy the thermal underwear market through the development of e-commerce distribution channels, give up the line of distribution channels

.

In addition, the Antarctic also provides revenue for online businesses, user optimization, visual design and other services.

Not long ago, Antarctica’s Antarctic e-commerce disclosure announcement, intended to acquire Korean costume retailer TBH Global Co., “Basic House”, “Mind Bridge”, “JUCY JUDY”, “JUCY JUDY” Trademarks in mainland China, Hong Kong and Macau trademark ownership.

In addition, Antarctic e-commerce will also acquire 100% equity equity held by 100% (Shanghai) Fashion Co., Ltd. The announcement shows that the transaction document will sign before December 26, 2021.

The Antarctic layout acquires overseas brands, and the side confirms its “warm underwear” has not been able to continue to support enterprise development, so different attempts began. However, in social media and TV news, the Antarctic people have been questioned until the product quality inspection is unqualified. How to get the next step for the Antarctic?

01 “Altights” and “The Road to Sungha”

For many young people, “Antarctic” is equivalent to the pioneer of “warm underwear”.

A 95 consumers said to Phoenix Network: “When I was young, my parents bought the warm underwear is Antarctic, but now choose warm underwear, you will usually buy uniforms. The price of Uniqlo is cheaper, and the quality is guaranteed. Feel the street It is an Antarctic, it is difficult to distinguish true and false. “

In 1997, Zhang Yuxiang founded the “Antarctic” brand and putted 3 million yuan. Due to the shortage of resources, there is no professional “thermal underwear” brand at that time. Zhang Yuxiang established the beginning of “Antarctic”, the main underwear sales, with self-construction plants to produce and sell underwear, in just 4 months, I received a million sales.

深度 | 当保暖内衣不再保暖,南极人也不再稳坐“神坛”

Around 2000, Yu Zhaolin, who was the thermal underwear brand, was exploded in the product added plastic film. Adding a plastic film in thermal underwear, does not meet environmental requirements, is also not conducive to breathable, so the thermal underwear brand has fallen into a trust crisis for a time.

At the same time, some thermal underwear brands headed by Antarctic began to study “high-tech” materials, hoping to replace heavy products.

In the next few years, the Antarctic and a global multinational company launched a wide range of technical cooperation –

Cooperation with DuPont Company, in the first to develop “cotton + Laika” warm underwear; Lenzing AG, Lenzing AG, to introduce wood pulp fibers into thermal underwear, create a comfortable era of thermal underwear.

International famous financial magazine “Forbes” said: “This is a useful trial of Chinese national clothing brands and internationally to internationalize.”

Antarctic

“More thin, warmer, more comfortable”

The slogan has become a thermal underwear industry giant. In that era, consumers want to get rid of bloated while keeping warm, only to choose Antarctic people.

After making a differentiated product, the Antarctic began to cooperate to strengthen marketing. He successively signed the first line of Geyou and Liu Dehua, holding a press conference, putting advertising to CCTV media, and promotes a visibility.

However, under the influence of the 2008 financial crisis, the Antarctive Antarctors in the steamed sun closed all the offline plants.

Analysis shows that in 2008, the US dollar continued to depreciate, the cost of labor has increased, causing the cost of the textile industry, and the profit space was significantly compressed, even lost. Due to the decline in market demand, the domestic textile production is excessive, and the domestic textile plant is difficult to operate. Therefore, the domestic textile industry has to turn off the factories and layoffs.

深度 | 当保暖内衣不再保暖,南极人也不再稳坐“神坛”

In the thermal underwear industry, the Antarctic people with the self-founded factory are difficult to escape the influence of the financial crisis, so they quickly cut off all lines, open the “Trademark Authority” model to eliminate the loss of the physical factory.

The Antarctic began to sign production products with the foundry, and started the business of “selling tags”.

In fact, there is no factory, and there is no “fist product” in the thermal underwear market, the Antarctic people combined with countless wiping ball products, the word of mouth is also collapsed.

Since then, the Antarctic began the road to “OEM”.

02 Antarctic “discontinued”

After implementing the “Trademark Authorization”, the Antarctic people no longer have a brand-independent factory, and the quality of the thermal underwear produced by the supplier has become mixed.

Search for “Antarctive” keywords on 1688, found factory can be described as five flowers. Among them, the first “Yiwu Sakura Coach Co., Ltd.” is an Antarctic Operation Super Factory, 11-50 scale, and the processing method is OEM, and 5,000 pieces are set. The second “Zhongshan Kong Ming Electronic Commerce Co., Ltd.” is a cat, an Antarctic people’s foundry, a scale of 101-500, and an OEM, OEM, ODM, and CMT.

1688 screenshot

The difference in these methods is that OEM is factory direct foundry. OBM is the manufacturing and production of its own brand in factories. ODM refers to all services from R & D, design to production and post-maintenance by the procurement party. The CMT refers to the processing of raw materials provided by the supplier importers.

For the Antarctic, it is only the OEM solution – entrusting the manufacture of manufacturers through the contract ordered, and then bought the product low-cost, and passed its own brand trademark.

However, due to the low authorization cost of the Antarctic, many non-main OEM plants have also joined the Antarctic Operation.

The People’s Daily reported that Tmall as an example, the factory can produce the “Antarctive” tag products as long as the factory pays 100,000 yuan margin, and the cost of 8 yuan per tag. Up to 10,000-yuan massage chairs, the disposable mask of five cents can be posted on the “Antarctic” label.

深度 | 当保暖内衣不再保暖,南极人也不再稳坐“神坛”

03 thermal underwear market “inner volume”, the Antarctic people “out color”

The factory is different, the main business is inconsistent, which will lead to uneven production capacity of the factory, so the quality of the Antarctic underwear produced by different foundrs has lacks unified standards.

Recently, some netizens spit “Antarctic mass warm pants and shrink 20 cm”.

In the video, netizens were printed on the “100% cotton” in the Antarctual warm pants label. However, the data shows that the cotton product is not easily shrinking, usually only 3% to 5%. It can be seen that the Antarctic warm pants of 20 cm, which does not meet the “100% cotton” of its claims, and the quality of the control has a serious deviation.

In a priced 99-yuan Antarctic thermal underwear, the officially given the raw material: nylon 54%, 23.2% viscosity, 11.4% cotton, 10.4% acrylic, spandex 1.0%. The same price of 96 yuan MUJI thermal underwear, the ingredient is 90% cotton, 10% wool.

深度 | 当保暖内衣不再保暖,南极人也不再稳坐“神坛”

Antarctic product introduction

An underwear industry’s practitioners revealed to the Phoenix Network.

In thermal underwear, the more cotton is covered, and the wool is tightly arranged in the spinning weaving, and therefore, it belongs to the high cost of thermal underwear.

In contrast, in the warm underwear in the same grade, the ancestor’s warm performance does not have MUJI.

Antarctic official flagship store, the concept of “Delvet” is a selling point.

A price of 89 yuan, the main “German Technology” men spontaneously hot autumn clothes, the highest temperature value is 6.4 ° C. The price of 89 yuan of Jane warm underwear has also contains Delp fever, and the temperature rise value is as high as 9.2 ° C.

深度 | 当保暖内衣不再保暖,南极人也不再稳坐“神坛”

Release product introduction

Under the same price and warm technology, the Antarctic’s warmth is far less than other brands, which makes the status of the Antarctic “Industry Boss” shake. In addition, in addition to “warm performance”, Taobao commentary also has any other issues such as Antarctic “Easy” and “Cloud”.

深度 | 当保暖内衣不再保暖,南极人也不再稳坐“神坛”

In terms of warmth patents, the Antarctic people have created exclusive products with “cotton + Laika” thermal underwear and “wood pulp fiber”, providing consumers with a comfortable and thin thermal underwear. But now, the Antarctic has given up the patent research in warmth.

According to data, the thermal underwear patented at the beginning of the establishment of Antarctic people, the current state has been shown as “right termination”, and the update is stopped in 2012.

Figure: Network

Perhaps the Antarctic people also realized that its thermal underwear no longer has monopoly, therefore began to launch other warm products.

In the Taobao flagship store, the categories operated by the Antarctic include socks, underwear, rechargeable warm water bags, fever foot stickers, etc., as if used exhaust all power to prove its “warm brand” positioning.

However, this example shows that the Antarctic’s fist product thermal underwear is not enough to continue to support the “warm” influence of the brand.

04 Antarctic people do “intermediary”

The 2021-year-old newspapers released by the Antarctic people from Antarctic people have shown that although operating income increased by 2.15% in the first half of this year,

Net profit was only 246 million yuan, down 42.85% year-on-year, with an earnings of 0.1,38 yuan.

Antarctic e-commerce said in the announcement, the profit has fallen during the reporting period, which is due to the decline in the revenue of the brand authorized service business of Ali channel customers.

深度 | 当保暖内衣不再保暖,南极人也不再稳坐“神坛”

In fact, the Antarctic e-commerce has begun to slow down in 2020.

In 2020, the company has shown that the company has achieved operating income of 4172 billion yuan, an increase of 6.78% over 2019, net profit of 1.88 billion yuan, and the growth rate is -1.5%.

As of 13 on December 13, the Antarctic e-commerce reported 6.84 yuan / share, which fell 71.52% from the stock price of 24.02 yuan / share last year;

The total market value was 16.791 billion yuan, which was more than 40 billion yuan compared to the total market value of the highest point of 58.5 billion last year.

Antarctic on December 13 stock price

In addition, in the first half of 2021, the company Antarctic brand GMV (full name GROSS MERCHANDISE VOLME), that is, total commodity transaction, is 17.09 billion yuan, which is less than half of the year of GMV in 2020.

The income of the Antarctic people slowed down, the stock price fell, and the transformation of the “intermediary” was closely related to its business model.

深度 | 当保暖内衣不再保暖,南极人也不再稳坐“神坛”

In 2012, the Antarctic people invented the Community Business model (the internal referred to as NGTT). This is a new business model that the Antarctic opened. “NGTT” mode is a brand platform with a Antarctician company, signed an agreement with a large-scale production plant and dealer, and then realizes product sales in Alibaba, Jingdong, Vipshop, etc. Almost all large-scale e-commerce platforms.

Simply put, the current Antarctic is not focusing on developing products, but starts to develop trademarks.

深度 | 当保暖内衣不再保暖,南极人也不再稳坐“神坛”

Antarctica’s Antarctic E-commerce website shows that Antarctic e-commerce is now the main business is “brand authorization and comprehensive service” and “mobile Internet marketing”.

深度 | 当保暖内衣不再保暖,南极人也不再稳坐“神坛”

Antarctic TV business network diagram

“Brand Authorization and Integrated Services” 即 Company to the authorized supplier, distributor “Authorized Trademark” and comprehensive services, collect brand comprehensive service charges, distributor brand license fees,

Usually Antarctic people will receive 10% -15% of the revenue fee with the supply plant.

Refining, the Antarctic will provide product development, quality control, production plan optimization, quality control, supply chain training, etc. to authorize suppliers, providing online operations, visual display, traffic promotion, user experience for authorized dealers Indirect services such as activity planning.

“Mobile Internet Marketing” is the main business of wholly-owned subsidiary time, through agent mobile Internet media delivery platform traffic and its integrated dispersion flow, providing efficient, high quality, precise marketing services to customers.

In the two business, the former “brand authorization and comprehensive service” is “OEM” business that is well known to the public, and its gross profit margin is as high as 90%, which is the main source of Antarctic profits.

Such operational models are peeled off from the two important roles of producers and distributors, making the Antarctic people.

Nowadays, the Antarctic in the market is no longer a seller, but contacts the production and distribution of a bond.

Such an “middleman” role causes the Antarctic people to provide services, which block more efficient cooperation in sales terminals and suppliers, so its quality inspection is endless.

05 quality inspection is unqualified, repeatedly

Search for Antarctic people on the website of the State Market Supervision Administration, there are 41 related results.

Products that are unqualified by the quality inspection include outdoor jackets, children’s high chairs, home textile products, thermal underwear, scarves, etc.

In 2018, the list of unqualified enterprises in knitted underwear product quality.

Antarctic (Shanghai) Co., Ltd., a classic Shufeng cotton thermal underwear (knit underwear) due to fiber content, the pH is unqualified by the name.

In a case in 2019, it pointed out that Shaanxi Yao Hongshang Investment Co., Ltd. promoted the Antarctic youth plus velvet thick thermal underwear in the Antarctic Nanyirens.

Antarctic product introduction

“Antibacterial, deodorant function”, no related test reports and proof materials, belong to deception, misleading consumers.

Figure: Network

In 2020, Antarctic e-commerce’s “authorized trademark” business net profit of 280 million yuan, 420 million yuan in 2019, fell 33%.

深度 | 当保暖内衣不再保暖,南极人也不再稳坐“神坛”

As a thermal underwear brand, it is not good to manage the product, turn it on the e-commerce, no wonder the thermal underwear of the Antarctic people no longer “keep warm”.

Antarctic people are insufficient in the same price, lack of warm performance.

Its use of “Delvet” technology is not patented in the thermal underwear market, and the Antarctive “German” product is not as good as the same price of other brands.

In addition, the patents who have been launched have been terminated, and now only by “trademark authorization” is profitable for the company, I have long lost the patience of the brands.

With the quality inspection, goods shrinking, raw material falsification, etc.

Antarctic may have a short-lived earnings for enterprises with a reputation that has accumulated in the past 20 years. However, the current situation is enough to explain that the Antarctic people cannot rely on the “OEM” to occupy the market.

In order to reverse the situation, the company began to try to reject huge investment international brands, the purpose of completing the enterprise transformation in the future. However, it is possible to increase the burden to the company, and it is smashed.

The fundamental problem of the Antarctic people is that the product is no longer warm, and the warm underwear that does not warm is, how to continue to tell the future consumers to “new stories”?

Reference: People’s Daily “can” Antarctic “? How long does it take to pay for this kind of game?

EDTOR: LILLIE

Written: Chy

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