Because there is a brand like Swaying,
Knitting is constantly given new possibilities.
“My perception of knitting seems to be natural,
I can imagine the process of wearing a needle lead,
You can also imagine the appearance of a knitted clothing ~ “” “”
“What impressed me was
Cashmere from raw materials to yarn to knitted clothes
The whole process requires more than 120 processes. “
“We have insisted from the beginning
The concept of “making a brand of thought and focusing on knitting” “
▼ Introduction to brand Swaying
The Chinese independent designer brand Swaying, founded in 2017, originated from the designer’s fabric design background, and the obsession with the obsession and details of the knitting touch. Under the inspiration and emotions, and reproduce the gentle and tough independent female image of the brand’s follow. Huang Shasha, a knitted women’s clothing and fabric designer, studied undergraduate in the London Fashion Fashion fabric in London, England. In 2017, he obtained a master’s degree in knitting women’s clothing from the Royal Academy of Art. And Vogue Talents. To knitted design is also a cure for Huang Shasha. The biggest difference between it and traditional fashion is that knitting starts with creative fabrics. I hope that the emotions of each season can be conveyed by knitted soft touch.
▼ Designer Huang Shasha focuses on exploring the connection with the body and tells the story of temperature
Huang Shasha was born and grew up in Xiamen. The city is located in the southeast of Fujian Province. Its coastline winds and turns, surrounded by mountains in the port area. The subtropical marine climate makes the seawater not frozen all year round. At the same time, this is also one of the first four economic special zones in China to implement the four economic zones in China. It is the key fulcrum of the Maritime Silk Road. The unique geographical location allows Xiamen to four seasons in spring. The traces of autumn and winter are concealed. The laws seem to be established here. In Huang Shasha’s hometown, the function of clothing is incomplete. The sweater in the northerners is not common in Xiamen.
“There are so many children in our family, so my mother invited a tutor to take us. She was from Harbin, and she could woven sweaters.” At that time, the tutoring teacher would weave the sweater of the gathematns of all kinds of weaving patterns according to the summary of all kinds of woven patterns. The style of Shixing made Huang Shasha remember. “I got a white horse -haired sweater with Christmas elements at the time.” Huang Shasha recalled. Later, when studying graphic design at the Central Academy of Fine Arts, one of her classmates often wore a wool vest that her mother’s wool in winter. “I was envious of her at the time. Then generate temperature. “The experience of her young age made her have special emotions about knitting, and this emotion was more curious based on a desire. In order to get closer to this process, Huang Shasha resolutely decided to go abroad to study clothing design. She re -studied undergraduate at the London School of Fashion, which spent nearly 6 years to understand the special significance of knitting to fashion. When asked about other reasons for choosing to be a knitted women’s clothing designer, she replied without thinking: “My perception of knitted knitting seems to be natural. I can imagine the process of wearing a needle. The appearance. “
When she was a child, Huang Shasha often went to her mother’s clothing processing plant. The sound of the machine operation in the workshop was mixed with the tearing sounds when cutting the fabric, echoing in her ear. The influence of the family and the solid graphic design foundation make her more keen perception to her fabric. While studying for a master’s degree in the Royal Academy of Art, she would go to the large and small markets in London to collect fabrics, everything about knitted related. She also often stays alone in the early morning in the studio, and is almost completely immersed in the world of the yarn. The movement of the needle leading to the machine in front of the machine fascinates her. ” , Everyone seems to have defaulted these two machines. “Huang Shasha said with a smile.
After graduation, she released her graduation design in Labelhood (labelhood = Lei Hu, a buyer store in China supporting independent design). At that time, the name “Sha Sha Wong” was used. Although the designer’s name is used as a brand name as a long -term tradition of the fashion industry, Huang Shasha still believes that the name is not close to knitting itself. Before the first series after her debut, she thought about using the gram degree of the yarn or the weight of the knitted fabric as the brand name. In an instant, she remembered the years of dancing with the yarn in the studio alone. “Then It is the moment I enjoyed the most, and it is also my closest to knitting. “So, the name” Swaying “was born, which means that when the weaving machine sways left and right.
Huang Shasha’s exploration of knitting is more focused on its native value, that is, the connection of knitting with the body. Swaying is connected through this theme through this theme. The fashion is designed for wearing, so it has inextricable connections with the body. The reason why it is attractive is not only because of the gorgeous appearance, but also because of its fabric and tailoring. As the philosopher Merleau Ponty proposed, fashion is not only a aesthetic or symbolic phenomenon, but also a sample experience. Although knitting is closer to our physical body than other fabrics, this kind of clothing cannot become an evergreen product on the market due to seasonal restrictions. Huang Shasha is deeply touched by this. When the hands heard the word “knitting ‘, they lost their interest instantly, because consumers would not pay for it in spring and summer.”
In order to change this situation, Huang Shasha introduced the cold yarn to make the clothes look thinner and translucent, but the scrap rate of this yarn is relatively high, the matching of the needle is very narrow, and the production hours and expenses are also expensive. Increase. In addition, in order to respond to the popular topic of sustainable fashion, she began to choose a yarn made of recycled cotton. In order to allow the market to recognize Swaying’s knitted design, she adjusted the size and lightness of the clothes. “Every time we participate in Showroom, we will get a lot of feedback. When I digest the praise or suggestion from all parties, I will determine which ones need to need it. What is improved, which should be persisted. “Huang Shasha concluded.
She tried again and again, so that knitted clothing can exist in the closet at any time of the year. At the same time, consumers clearly realize that knitted clothing will not expose body defects and will not be limited by temperature. “Our current design has moved towards two endpoints, one tends to tradition, and the other is pointing to the present.” Needless to doubt that because of the existence of brands such as Swaying, knitting will continue to be given new possibilities. Each series of Swaying seems to be a puzzle. Huang Shasha picked up, reorganized, expanded, and stepped up to expand the tolerance of knitted knitting step by step, and told the world to its diverse connotation.
▼ Each interview festival
What is the inspiration of this design?
The inspiration of this design (see the figure below) continues the theme of our 2019 spring and summer series, “the body’s asylum”. In the current social environment, many people will have a strong sense of anxiety and anxiety, so I hope to bring a sense of security to the wearer through a comfortable texture and loose silhouette.
What do you want to convey this design?
Swaying’s design concepts and expressions have always followed the standards that combine modern women’s resolute, professional appearance with warmth and soft hearts. We want to express a gentle power, perhaps silent, internal, and soft, just like our works. This time, I also spent the cashmere raw strip of unsatisfactory gauze on the cardigan and dresses. With a long period of time, the cashmere hair feathers will slowly fall, while wearing it, and at the same time, it has a very poetic beauty.
As a designer specializing in knitting design, do you have any new cognition of cashmere fabrics through this cooperation?
The unique texture of cashmere and the inherent “high -level sense” is irreplaceable. Because of this cooperation, I went to Ordos in particular. What impressed me is that the whole process of cashmere from raw materials to yarn to knitted clothes requires more than 120 processes in large and small. This allows more respect and cherish the profession we are working now, and also aware that the cashmere we wear on our body is very precious.
Since the establishment of the brand, one of the most fulfilling things:
We just started, there were no particularly great achievements or particularly worthwhile things. However, I would say that we have insisted on the concept of “doing a thoughtful, focusing on knitting brand” from the beginning. To this day, we have not changed because of business or other pressures or attractiveness. We are still the independent knitting brands that have been thinking about modern women and bringing our emotions and emotions into the design. Essence
Why did you choose to make a knitted women’s clothing brand?
It’s really because I like to do knitting too much! When I was studying, I learned the design of other categories, but I finally found that when I was sitting in front of the knitting machine, I used the strength of the whole body to continue to swipe the machine back and forth. I like to visit the school’s yarn room, R & D fabrics, and try to break through innovation and combination. This feeling is strange. Just like I finally found what I should do, it is a sense of belonging that I chose knitting, not anything else.
During the Shanghai Fashion Week in 2017, your design still appeared in the name of SHA Sha Wong. By this year, it officially released its first clothing series. Why does it give the brand the name Swaying?
Last year I just graduated from RCA and came back to participate in my graduation design work. At that time, I didn’t think too much about the so -called “brand”, so I decided not to take a name that might be modified afterwards, so I used my own real name to participate in the exhibition. However, after several months of precipitation thinking and starting to fight in this industry, I started to qualitatively and name the brand I wanted to do. Swaying, a very wonderful vocabulary, it represents a movement -swinging, shaking, and shuttle back and forth, just like the rhythm of the machine when I do knitting; As I feel like when I do knitting. This word is very suitable for my most primitive love for knitting. Standing in front of the machine, I happily prepare my own mood with both hands. This is beautiful and happy.
Why can the experience of helping fishermen in Xiamen can become your inspiration?
In fact, that fisherman is my uncle, and the person who taught me to weave the fishing net is my aunt. Before the small fishing village on the seaside, there was no business, no factories, fishermen went to the sea to fish, and my wife compiled the Internet on the shore. The fishermen took the love of their wives and the dream of their homes to fight in the waves. The wife brought her hope for the future and the worries about her husband at home. This memory is very beautiful and wonderful. There will be such inspiration, which actually derives the traceability of “why do I like knitting” before doing the first season. By chance, I recalled the experience of “weaving” a piece of item in my life -the experience you mentioned on the sea. The emergence of this memory made me feel that I may be destined to do this business since I was a child, and maybe “weaving” has always been an important word in my life.
Similar to “thick knitted and light yarn”, is the comparison of these designs meaning to do it? What is the effect of this contrast to your clothes?
In fact, from the season of “AIR AS Stone” in my graduation design, we can see that I have always cared about the comparison of quality, weight, and density in a work. This may be due to my interest in the development of new fabrics that I have left today. For me, combining different properties and different forms to create new fabrics and feelings has always been a wonderful thing. So in the current design ideas, I feel that through a large and contrastable feeling and visual comparison, I can not only give you an impact from the sense, but also use a stronger design language to express the work to express Feelings.
The characteristics of Ma Hai Mao and Yaki, the characteristics of the two fabrics?
The Ma Hai Mao used this time (2018) is Kid Mohair imported from Italy, which is different from the traditional Mahai Mao. Because the number is relatively small, it is thinner, and it is softer, slender, close to the skin and does not tie the skin at all. The yak velvet we use this time is produced in Tibet. Compared with cashmere, yakosaki is more durable, not as delicate as cashmere, and the fabric of the same amount, yak cashmerer is more warm.
In addition to the two fabrics of Mahai Mao and yakon, what are the considerations in the choice of yarn?
In addition to the above two fabrics, this time we also use the thickest wool yarn used by computer knitting functions to present a thicker feeling through double -sided flat weaving. In addition, we also use a very thin yarn, which presents the effect similar to Ougen gauze. Combining this contrast effect through weaving and skills, showing a comparison exaggeration and multi -level emotional expression.
How do you use the fabric so cleverly in the process of designing?
For fabrics, I have always had my own persistence and thinking. The fabric is the basis and inevitable of a piece of clothing. It is a carrier of all design, and it is also the design ontology that needs to be considered the most. Therefore, in the selection of fabrics, the development and application of the fabric, the special treatment and arrangement of the fabric, I will be more concerned and attentive.
Some versatile items are more likely to be woven by items (such as the dresses like fishing nets), will it affect the actual wear?
Indeed, Gous has always been a problem that we want to avoid and solve in design. That dress that looks like a fishing net (actually fishing nets, haha) is actually just like a lot of similar net gauze skirts on the market. We need to be more careful when wearing and taking off, but we believe that we can recognize and like this dress customer. They must also care for and protect her. However, of course, in the future design works, especially in Commercial Pieces other than SHOW PIECES, reduce this possibility.
▼ Swaying2018 ~ 2022 garment series
Swaying2018 Autumn and Winter series, Swaying’s first garment series, trying to find the simplest and pure emotions in the small fishing village on the seaside of Xiamen, use Malaysia, yakosi, coarse wool, yarn, etc. The fabric woven the designer’s emotions to dream and the gentle, strong, simple, and independent imagination of modern women.
Swaying 2019 Spring / Summer series, there is a material called waste yarn under the product product of fashion. significance.
Swaying2019 autumn and winter series, with soft materials such as cashmere, horse -haired and water velvet wool as a carrier. I hope that through these extremely soft and delicate materials, the sensitive and soft heart of the wrapper is wrapped. Through the design of large silhouettes, a comfortable asylum is established to help you guard these most precious self. For the use of a large number of skin -friendly transparent yarns and metal wire, it echoes women’s body and inner beauty.
Swaying2020 spring and summer series, with the concept of “time distortion/time twist”, triggers the thinking between women and time. Human consciousness starts with the body, so the body can first feel the time of time in our own. Use real silk yarn and flash fiber to intertwine the soft but non -confidential image, and the faint texture floats in the body, in order to study the gentle and tough independent female image in order to study the fabric.
Swaying2020 autumn and winter series, with the theme of “Yuan”, re -connecting emotional relationships. The epidemic forced us to return to the “home” unit. The series hopes to connect the scattered image memories through the fabrics, just like the family members scattered in various places.
Swaying2021 Autumn and Winter series, the theme “Standing in the Wind” uses the Scottish rough wool to depict the wind and the grass flavor of the plateau. The plastic yarn is used as the newly added material. The material of the velvet still provides warm protection for everyone.
Swaying2022 spring and summer series explains what “skin relatives”. When we embrace with others, touching and overlapping limbs make the skin warm, and the remaining charm left by this physical contact will always be imprinted in our memory. In order to record this feeling, the designer introduced European roots in water -soluble cashmere, so that the clothing also has the lightness of the European roots and the soft cashmere softness, supplemented by hollow hook needles and dense weaving, so that the skirt is fitted with the skin in the skin in the skin. It does not look heavy, but just shows the outline of the body.
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